The Anton Files... Where To Ride

St Anton has a reputation for riding. That’s why many seasonnaires here are on something ridiculous like their 13th season. 

And then there are stories like Joan’s. Joan is an inspirational lady who runs a fantastic restaurant called Underground On The Piste here. She arrived from her native Australia in search of challenging ski terrain 40 years ago and she’s still going strong…

The reputation is justified. And it’s not for the faint-hearted. St Anton is not beginner-friendly. Try telling that to the groups of British men who rock up here for their annual holiday. 

Ride they cannot, but the pissing contest mentality takes over and they are very often a danger to themselves and, more importantly, other people. That’s why I’m wearing a helmet for the first time in 16 years. 

So, where to go? With 280km of piste for your lift pass, there is plenty to keep you amused.

But it’s the freeride potential of the place that makes it so special, not least because it’s so bloody accessible. No hiking required. 

There are five lifts out of the village. Just a short hop from two of them (Gampen and Nasserein) is the Kapall lift. At the top, there are three pistes (red, black and blue) but, if you drop off to the left, there’s an off-piste run called Mattun (pictured above right), which connects to something known as Happy Valley. 

Basically, it’s an excellent place to go if you’re riding with people of different abilities. 

Happy Valley (pictured left), by the way, is possibly the most ironic name in Austria. This is one of the main drags back to the village and in the afternoon, it is a rent-a-crowd horror story. 

However, if you want to get your freeride on, there’s the option to drop down Bachseite (stay right) before you hit the unhappy valley. 

Top tips for avoiding the masses include Stuben and Rendl. Lots of people hit up Stuben, but the majority of them don’t venture further than the Valfagehr lift at the bottom. If you stay right and take the tunnel under the road, there’s the Albona playground to be explored. 

The pistes (red, steep, wide and impressive) will never be as mashed up as elsewhere. The touring possibilities of nearby Maroikopfle (pictured below right) are well worth investigating too.

Which brings me to Rendl. It’s the little mountain (only because it’s got fewer runs) accessed by a spanking new gondola at the top of the village. 

Most tourists don’t find it until towards the end of their stay so it’s generally less busy.

It’s also the home of the park, an excellent sun trap and the best place to unwind in a deckchair. 

Speaking of sun, Sonnenkopf (translation: Sunny Head) is one of St Anton’s best kept secrets. 

Included in your lift pass and just a few kilometres away, but an utter fag to get to (it once took me three buses and 90 minutes). 

Unsurprisingly, most people don’t bother, but bother they should because it’s one of the best places to ride here.

Small but perfectly formed with impeccably groomed runs and loads of easily-reached off-piste drop-ins, it’s the perfect destination when there’s fresh powder. 

I know one person who came here just for the riding potential of Sonnenkopf (pictured left). 

If that’s not a recommendation, I don’t know what is… 

* March 20-27 is Spring Week in St Anton and there are some serious bargains on offer. Seven nights B&B with six-day lift pass included starts at €398 per person. More information at www.stantonamarlberg.com

*Thank you to Steven Newsome for his help (and excellent guiding).