St Anton

Mid-season blues. I’d heard about them, but never actually witnessed them. Four years ago, I did a winter in Kitzbuhel and, yes, the seasonnaires got a bit fed-up, but not at the same time or in numbers.

Fast forward to St Anton, 2010. Bloody hell, it was like a rabble of mentalists had escaped en masse from an asylum.

The full moon probably didn’t help, but – on one particular night out – it seemed that everyone I talked to had lost their mind.

St Anton has a reputation for riding. That’s why many seasonnaires here are on something ridiculous like their 13th season. 

And then there are stories like Joan’s. Joan is an inspirational lady who runs a fantastic restaurant called Underground On The Piste here. She arrived from her native Australia in search of challenging ski terrain 40 years ago and she’s still going strong…Mattun

The reputation is justified. And it’s not for the faint-hearted. St Anton is not beginner-friendly. Try telling that to the groups of British men who rock up here for their annual holiday. 

 Snow and sun cannot be guaranteed. Fact. 

Take this week, for example. Blue skies and fresh powder for transfer day, when everyone was working their arses off. Then howling gales and white-outs for days on end when we actually had some time to enjoy the mountain. 

So what's a girl to do? In St Anton, thank the Lord, there are quite a few options. 

Take the Arlberg Well.Com centre. A modern, almost space age building overlooking the village, it houses enough treats to keep you occupied for hours. It's not cheap, but you get your money's worth. 

We’re all a bit partial to some smash-up time after a cruise around the mountain. And in St Anton it’s all too easy to get on the train to Smash-up Central. 

There are so many choices that, after nearly two months in resort, I’ve probably visited fewer than half of them. 

The good thing is that they’re generally really different. It’s simply a question of choosing a venue to suit your mood. 

If drunken riding in the dark floats your boat, you are definitely in the right place. 

It’s easy to forget the inflated prices in a ski resort. Mainly because, in most years, we’ve saved like lords to splash out on our annual blast on the slopes.

But when you’re living with it day-in day-out without a trust fund to fall back on, ingenious money-saving measures are required. 

Here’s what I’m dealing with (bar prices): 

  • Diet Coke: €3.30

  • Beer: €5
  • 
Cocktail: €10
  • 
Hamburger: €5
  • 
Pizza: €10
  • 
Cigarettes: €5

  • Haloumi cheese: €3.90
  • 
Return night bus trip: €7

 

Given its propensity for attracting big groups of blokes, St Anton has somewhat unfairly earned the moniker ‘Manton’.

But for three weeks in January, women will be taking back the power thanks to an ingenious initiative called Ladies First. 

Basically, this entitles us to heaps of discounts and deals while the men pay usual prices. I like it. A lot. 

Women holidaymakers just have to roll up to the tourist office in the village centre where they’ll get a booklet crammed with money-saving, female-friendly vouchers. 

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